Autumn Climbing Recap
Part 2:

Other Adirondack Places

Roger's Rock

28^th September

I had sung the praises of Roger's Rock to a couple guests while down in the Gunks, and as summer drew to a close, they took me up on the adventure. Guy and Jennifer had taken well to roped climbing during our day on conglomerate, and were eager to test their new skills in another arena. Although the weather report was unpromising, we went ahead with our plans and ended up enjoying a lovely day paddling to and from, and climbing the 500' Little Finger route.

Having struggled a bit with the strenuous characteristics of Gunks overhangs, Jennifer in particular was excited to find a type of climbing here that suited her natural style perfectly. Guy is a very capable climber, and adapted well to this unusual form of climbing, despite - so I am told - having enjoyed more than a little celebratory beverage the evening beforehand. Each did so well that I opted to take the direct variation through the overhang near the start of the third pitch. Leaving a "puller-piece" just above the difficulties, I led up the fine crack above, then stretched my 70 meter ropes to their end reaching the rappel station to the left. Jennifer scampered up with only a bit more concentration than the earlier pitches, and Guy practically jogged the pitch.

In no time at all, we stood together at the high point, congratulating each other briefly before heading downward. We had to be watchful on the sky: though our good weather held for the entire trip, the clouds looked threatening as we reached the top, so we didn't dare tarry. With two long ropes, I could lower each to the next anchor, then rappel to join them. We went so efficiently on the first two lowers that we stacked up and rappelled separately down the last run. While Guy was familiar with the process, Jennifer hadn't tried this technique before, so it was a good opportunity to add a new skill.

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Meadow Hill

6^th October

I read about a new area near exit 29 on the Adirondack Guidebook New Routes Page. Meadow Hill is described as an eight minute walk to a 15m high cliff. Since I had business not far from there and only a couple hours to spoil between appointments, I decided to look it over, figuring the short approach would allow time for some cleaning and climbing.

The drive up took longer than expected; exit 29 turns out to be quite a bit farther north than my appointment locale, and once on Ensign Pond Road, one drives several miles before reaching the Trout Pond Trailhead. For those coming from the south, by the way, Casa Turn Road is 3 miles up Route 9 after getting off exit 29; and you turn right for both Casa Turn Rd. and Ensign Pond Rd. Also, while the cairns are obvious, there is a better herd path already directly across from the long pull-off 100 meters west of the 30mph curve sign. One must then work up the hill at will. The ground is at first very broken, but on top the walking is easy.

The cliff itself is very dirty, and relatively small; however there are several promising lines. I chose to rappel off a handy pine tree a bit right of center (skier's left), and in the end climbed straight up the corner system that is below this tree. The particular line has a multi-trunked maple tree directly at its base. I brushed lichen, moss, and assorted fungal powders off for about an hour, then top-roped the line. While the climbing is enjoyable, the protection would be scarce, and the rock, a mass of largish feldspar crystals, is a bit unsound in spots. Pegmaloose seems about 5.8+, needs more cleaning, and perhaps a bolt or two. Clutching the bottom of the corner (it ends abruptly about five meters above the ground) is unnerving, as the entire corner seems to resound hollowly. If the rock is better than I judged it, and pro can be unearthed, it would be worth repeating. Otherwise, it was a fun bit of exploring and I was only a little late for my appointment...

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Shanty Cliff

14^th October

No climbing pics here...though despite it being well past leaf-peak, there were some fine views, so my camera didn't sit idle. Enjoy.

I took one more trip across the mighty East Branch of the Sacandaga as foliage season dwindled away. Tim Trezise took his LIFT group there, and invited me to join the fun. When I arrived, I found quite a gathering at the riverbank. "Mighty" is a sardonic term at the low water level of the day, but Tim was careful to point out that in high water, this crossing is dangerous.

Having forgotten any form of water shoe, I opted to ford the river barefoot. I couldn't feel my toes by the time I reached the other side, a sure sign of winter's approach. Not enough to thwart my efforts, I carried onward, returning dry shoes and socks to their proper appendages and heading up the hill with the rest of the gang. Tim took the group up the lower slabs for an introductory climbing and rappelling lesson, while I continued up the trail to place a rope on the Little Gem Diner Wall. Tim was optimistic about getting everyone finished on the slabs in short order, but he had quite a group to handle. I knew I had time to play around some before rejoining the gang.

I set up a rope, climbed Time Trials, then set a rappel over the proper wall and used it to top-rope both Little Gem Diner and Vernal Imperatives. Finishing this, I could hear the gleeful shouts of Tim's students still working on the slabs, so I decided to explore awhile.

I walked over the summit and looked for open views to the north and west. Eventually, I found a tall pine tree rising above the smaller trees in the desired direction. I slung the camera over my shoulder and worked my way up high among the branches to a point where a broken limb offered a clear look across the remote valley to the mountains beyond. There were cliffs scattered across the side of the hill, but nothing I deemed worthy of the intense bushwhack necessary for closer inspection. In front of the large mountain to the north, a smaller hill, closer to the valley, appears to have some crags down low, and to the northeast I spied another potential crag, but nothing looks tantalizing or extensive.

Closer to Shanty itself, there may be a few short cliffs or slabs along the continuation of the Shanty Knob, a tiny slab that is listed in Tucker's research, but was cut from the New Guidebook. Since the only established climbs there are less than 20' tall (creatively named Thing 1 & Thing 2), and since the first ascentionists were intrepid explorers, there probably isn't much there, either.

Small matter, of course: Shanty Cliff is its own best reason for visiting. If the entire south end of the vast Siamese Ponds Wilderness has nothing else for climbers, Shanty will continue to draw them here.

With a pressing appointment in the afternoon - and weather moving rapidly in from the west - we were out of time for climbing. I had enjoyed the ride up a few wonderful routes and made the return to the car and civilization satisfied with the morning's activities.

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Movin' Indoors:
Rocksport Mondays

Once it grows too cold to climb outdoors, we are fortunate to have Rocksport Gym nearby. Tom and his staff have created a fun, challenging environment where old-timers can maintain their edge, hot-shots can push themselves, and never-evers can learn the ropes. Every Monday evening we spend a few hours bouldering, playing follow-the-leader, or taking turns top-roping routes, and of course we spend a fair amount of time socializing.

This year, I've been bringing my lead rope and working my way out the roof. I've yet to do it without resorting to "rainbow-routing" (using any and all available holds), but I'm working on it. The holds on the ceiling tend to be large cups and handles, but with gravity pulling straight at your back, it is still a strenuous traverse to reach the peak anchors without flaming out first.
Zack, one of the Monday night regulars, has started tying onto the sharp (lead) end and leading the ceiling, too. Since trying out the sport he has become an enthusiastic practitioner, joining the climbing club advancing up the bouldering scale, and learning more advanced techniques. We still haven't managed to get him down to the Gunks, nor indeed anywhere outdoors yet, but when we do, he is sure to climb strongly, thanks to the start he got at Rocksport.

We're planning to meet every Monday evening from here until the end of April. Tom has extended discount pricing to Monday night participants, so come on over and join the fun some time. Keep sharp, improve your ability, learn to climb, or just cheer us on as we tackle the ceiling.

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