Ice Climbing Crane Mountain's
Outlet Falls

11^th February, 2010

Streaming from Crane Mountain's pond, the Outlet flows more than 800' down to the beaver pond beside the old Putnam Barn. Meandering through a tight conifer swamp for a short while, it then breaks out along open slabs, tumbling down boulder mounds and steep troughs before hurtling over a 100' waterfall and finishing its journey in a tight ravine overlooking the ancient farmstead. Long ago, I ice climbed this entire flow, and recalled it being a mix of pleasant low-angle ice, snow-slogging, and a couple terrifying steep sections. Though I had revisited that first pitch on several occasions, I had not retraced the entire flow in over fifteen years. When my friend Bruce Monroe called to see about a day out climbing, I jumped at the chance to retrace this long thread of ice.

We met at noon and quickly hit the trail, fast-pacing the mile hike to the trail junction near the cave. From here, we cut westward, holding a level course through the woods as we strode beside Crane's abruptly-rising flank. The open turf narrowed, giving way to boulders and bushes as we approached the Outlet's ravine, forcing us to work down around the worst obstacles before heading back up to the base of the falls.

Gearing up at the base of the climb.

When I'd first climbed the Outlet, I hugged the right side's steps. This year, the left side of the flow is in fantastic shape, easier than ever. Having tested this side out a few days earlier, I was all for giving it another go, figuring it a solid WI3 line. With a pack on, the pitch was more difficult than I expected. I was glad to have ice screws along to protect the hardest moves. The lead took longer than planned, but went well. Soon, Bruce was quickly working his way up to the belay.

Bruce climbs up the WI3 first pitch.

The going above was easy for as far as we could see, though trees and boulders blocked the view. Bruce elected to go onward, hacking through a short screen of flotsam, clambering over a tall step of ice, and disappearing around a massive rock. I continued to pay our rope as it came tight, and soon it was my turn to come along. Bruce had followed the best line possible from the left split of the falls, and was belaying on an ice bench a full 70 meter rope length from the top of the falls. The going was mostly WI1 with a step or two of WI2 ice; easy enough to get winded following it. I reached the anchors and we both took a moment to catch our breath and enjoy the view. The weather was excruciatingly clear, almost heavenly. A frosty breeze tugged at us once in awhile, but not enough to cause any harm. Sunshine warmed us adequately despite the wind chill and low temperature.

It was also warming the ice. I took the lead, kicking and stepping up an increasingly soft, buttery medium. The angle remained easy, so we began simul-climbing, working our way left to catch the main ice tendril. From there, we went upward on a glimmering-white ramp, walking pied a plat with piolet canne, occasionally slapping a tool in traction to negotiate a high step, but with little need for protection other than slinging the occasional tree. We climbed in this fashion for about 600', where we reached base of a short bulge, where we regrouped.

Bruce leads up the ice bulge.

One could easily avoid this altogether by dodging around it, but we were looking for just this sort of thing. Bruce elected to take the lead. He stepped through the steep beginning, placed one screw, and then waltzed up lower-angle ice for a 100', headed through another short headwall, then belayed in an alcove on the right side of the flow.

Bruce on the slab at the top of the Outlet Falls, where the trail crosses the stream.

We traded positions. I stepped left onto the widest part of the flow and ascended easily for an entire rope length to one last bulge. Here, Bruce took the sharp end for the last challenge of the route, all ten feet of it! After this, we coiled the rope and walked up the final ice slab, where we joined the hiker's trail and continued to the pond.

Getting chilly by Crane Mountain Pond.

It was still sunny, but that orb was dropping low. At this height and time, it grew cold quickly. We spent only enough time to grab a snack and drink, stash gear, and snap a few pictures. We opted to take the Connector Trail to the Summit Trail, a decision that would soon have us struggling up the icy, poorly-defined former path then reaffixing crampons to descend the latter. It would have been easier, safer, and faster to descend the Pond Trail instead, but this route gave Bruce the full tour of Crane Mountain, since he has already been to the summit. We returned to the car just as the sun set, spending a total of five and a half hours round trip.

If You Go...

• Remember that the base of the Outlet Falls lies on private property. Don't posthole on trails; either use snowshoes or stay off them.
• The bottom pitch is the hardest part of this climb. The falls splits into two sections, the left is WI3 (perhaps 4- in lean years), the right side is an easy WI2.
• There is no easy (or safe) walk-around for top-roping the first pitch.
• The most aesthetic line takes the righthand flow, linking directly up with the longest continuous ice.
  
  

  The right side starting pitch of the Outlet Falls.

• In snowy years, much of the climb above the falls is a slog.
• As mentioned, descent via the Pond Trail is the best option. Crampons may be needed for the descent.

Bruce tops out on a pitch along the Outlet Falls.