Mountainside View

Mountainside View

North Country Life in Word & Image

The present Guidebook is an excellent resource for climbers looking for crags in the Adirondacks. The scope of the region however, precludes in-depth coverage of every cliff and route in the Park. Since its publication, I've met several parties looking for the climbing routes on Crane Mountain, so I've decided to post a detailed reference here.
This first installment covers the Prows, a section of the summit ridge cliff about 100 meters east of the actual summit. I've chosen these to begin because they are easy to locate, it is easy to arrange top-ropes here, and the climbs, though short, are numerous, varied, and nice.

Rock Climber's Guide
to Crane Mountain

Part One:
The Prows

Jason Brechko relaxes at the Prows, Crane Mtn., New York

Jason Brechko relaxes at the Prows.

Approach

This area offers easy access and the highest concentration of good top-rope climbing on the summit ridge. From the summit, walk east toward the tall ladder for ~100'. Turn left onto a herd path that ducks into the woods and then heads east, coming out on top of the largest prow in less than a minute. Another prow lies beyond and below the first one, separated from it by a large notch. From this area, the view is open from NNE through WSW.

While this perch is quite high above the woods, the lower section of this cliff is broken up by vegetated ledges, one of which cuts across most of the crag and has become the standard starting point for the upper cliff. While all these routes have "lower" pitches (or parts of a pitch), the majority of climbers top-rope these routes and therefore start along that ledge. Generally, the lower sections consist of short thrashes through steep brush and conifers on dirty rock.

For those that prefer to lead or get the entire feel of a route, the base of this crag can be accessed easily: at the highest "bench" or plateau about 30' below the tall ladder, cut into the woods on climber's right and walk about 250' along a herd path, staying in sight of the cliff. Two short cracks are soon passed; above these is the largest prow. Farther along, a dirt cone provides access to the class 4 slot between the two main prows, and just past this, a ramp leads up to the chimney below Cornerstone.

There are eight distinct lines here, plus several excellent variations. With a modern rack and a good supply of cordalettes or webbing, top-rope setup is possible for most of them. This is not, however, a good place for novice climbers to set up anchors. While the resident cracks offer plenty of bombproof placements, there are no bolt anchors. Most of the belay systems work best as a "top-belay," that is, the belayer will remain at the top, lowering the climber. There is no easy walkway to the starting ledge of the routes.

Most of the routes were established a decade or more ago, so they are described in the present guidebook. A few lines were completed during the 2008 season.

Rock of Ages 5.7

Climbing Rock of Ages, Crane Mtn., New York

Climbing Rock of Ages. Stone Cross
traverses the crack just above the climber,
then up the faint corner system to finish.

This route has been soloed and top-roped. Pro is probably PG. Climb the tallest arête directly from its base, starting on a perched block. A 5.9 variation starts seven feet to the left, climbing straight up the steep face using several discontinuous cracks to join the arête about half way up.

Stone Cross 5.8

Again, soloed not led. Protection is probably PG. Start in the Access Slot, just above the start of Rock of Ages and fifteen feet to the right, at the right end of a long horizontal crack. Gain the crack and traverse left to a point directly under a left-facing flake. Reach up to it and climb to a ledge, then go up and out left to the nose, finishing on the last couple feet of Rock of Ages.

Foretaste 5.2 - 5.7

Nathan Herrmann tops out on Foretaste, Crane Mtn., New York

Nathan Herrmann at the top of Foretaste.

This 20' route is a good introduction to climbing, especially for children. It begins on the large ledge twelve feet below the top of the lower prow, at a large crack eight feet left of the inside corner. Climbing the crack is 5.2; moving left increases the difficulty in several steps: ascending without using the large crack at all is about 5.7. The inside corner to the far right provides an easy 5.2 route also.

Access Slot 5.0

Nathan Herrmann tops out on a winter ascent of the Access Slot, Crane Mtn., New York

Nathan Herrmann tops out on a winter ascent of the Access Slot.

This slot provides an avenue between the top of the cliff and the woods below, as well as the starting points for several of the "normal" routes here. Start in the woods below the smaller prow, at the first tree-filled dirt cone. Thrash through the trees to a narrow ledge heading left. Step out on this a few feet then scramble up a short bit of slab to another ledge at the bottom of the Second Prow's left face (base of Toiling Men). Step around and up on ledges to a corner and continue up and left. Mount an exposed bit of rock, avoiding a rocking block on the left, to more ledges interspersed with short faces to the top of the notch between the two prows.

Five Small Stones 5.6

Also soloed, not led; pro is probably R. Between the two main prows, lying close to the Second Prow, lies a smaller prow. Start at the base of this prow, same place as Toiling Men. Climb up the corner a few moves, then up and left to the outside corner of the minor prow. Make a blind reach for a good crack and continue up the arête, surmounting an overhang en route, to the ledge.

Toiling Men 5.10a

This route follows a series of cracks up the left side of the Second Prow. It is tempting to use the inside corner nearby, but doing so greatly diminishes the quality and challenge of the route. Start on a ledge at the bottom, left side of the Second Prow.
A difficult reach right gains a good finger crack. Ascend this to its end, continue up another short crack to its end, then move up and left to another crack (crux). Climb this to a horizontal and up the steep, difficult face above to the top, or traverse right to the top of Cornerstone.

Cornerstone 5.5 G

Tim Trezise heads up Cornerstone, Crane Mtn., New York

Tim Trezise, about to head left on Cornerstone.
Stoned in a Crowded Corner climbs directly up the face.
Lost in the Crowd ascends the crack to the right.

A climber heads up Cornerstone, Crane Mtn., New York

After the traverse, head up the arête.

One of the finest routes here takes an improbable line with relatively easy climbing, plenty of exposure, and attractive rock. Nowadays, the route is generally top-roped, but it lends itself well to leading. The right side of the Second Prow is bounded by a chimney with a few chockstones stuck in it. Coming from below, parties must first push through a short screen of dense conifers before reaching open rock below and right of the chimney. Belay there and climb up onto the lowest chockstone, an outward-leaning, tooth-like boulder. For top-roping, lower to this chockstone and begin climbing from there.
From there, step up and left onto the main face. Traverse left to the nose, move up and around into an open book and ascend this to its end, then the short face to the top.
An excellent 5.9+ variation starts as for Toiling Men but moves up to join Cornerstone at the arête, or parallels the route from there all the way up.

Stoned in a Crowded Corner 5.10a TR

This route climbs the attractive face between Cornerstone and Lost in the Crowd. Start at the same chockstone as Cornerstone.
Climb up and slightly right on continuously small holds. After passing a tiny overhang, trend slightly left to the top.

Lost in the Crowd 5.7 G

A crack runs up the right face of the Second Prow, almost paralleling the chimney corner. If one begins climbing at the lowest accessible point of the crack, the route is 5.8. Using the corner until the two diverge tames the route a bit. Generally top-roped now, but this has been led.
Climb the crack as it angles up and right, then turns left toward the top of Cornerstone.

There is one more route right of the Prows, on the vegetated, lower prow past the Second Prow. This route, Lost and Weary, was originally soloed. It begins on an unprotected 5.7 slab rising out of the woods below, then continues up the ill-defined arête, climbing through a poorly-protected 5.7 overhang before topping out. To my knowledge no one has repeated the route yet.

Jamie McNeill leads the Middle Forest Crack, Crane Mountain

Middle Forest Crack

Additionally, there are three climbing options on the short face below the First Prow, the "Forest Cracks." From left to right, the first ascends the face and thin crack at 5.7. The second line ascends the obvious wide hands/fist crack at 5.8. The last climbs the crack in the V-notch at 5.9+. These are short but worthwhile, and can be top-roped.

What About Farther Along?

The summit ridge cliff becomes very broken and vegetated as it turns northward after the Prows. However, there are a couple more patches of open rock along the ridge about fifteen minutes' difficult bushwhack farther on. There is nothing "official" on these cliffs to date.

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